Raw waters in cedar

2012-01-27T11:19:00.001-08:00

All I've Found by Band of Frequencies. Film by George Greenough. from Band of Frequencies on Vimeo.

2011-09-07T12:05:00.000-07:00

courtesy.....Sooloo

2011-08-18T14:29:00.000-07:00

you know the rules! round 1 from pinchmysalt.tv on Vimeo.

First custom board....

2011-08-03T11:23:00.000-07:00

5'10"X ~~"put the fin as far back as possible!"~~

I'm pretty sure that was what somebody in the Safari shop must have written on the order sheet. Loved that board tho', pic taken around '69 or '70. Shaped by Mike Larmont before he opened his own surf shop. Corduroy pants by Hang10..... I swear to God!

:-)

"She showing us she's free....."

2011-07-14T14:03:00.000-07:00

2011-06-19T16:10:00.000-07:00

Captain Barbosa's Raid On Lower Trestles from Jacob Epstein on Vimeo.

Wild Columbian

2011-06-16T10:09:00.000-07:00

A right

2011-06-11T15:12:00.000-07:00

A left

2011-06-08T09:29:00.000-07:00

2011-05-29T20:59:00.000-07:00

Watercolor

2011-05-13T21:55:00.000-07:00

With help from Steve Jobs.

Dairy

2011-04-21T10:58:00.000-07:00

The Old Man shot this sequence of a "too far to no wall" into "shorebreak crunch", typical Durban summer north-easterly shredded no swell. The plus side of Durban summer would be getting into 80 degree water at 5 a.m., if the landbreeze cleaned up the waves overnight it was pretty good. Think I was about 11 or 12 in these.

North

2011-04-16T11:10:00.000-07:00

North had this right hander on a conveyer belt, out through the rip, paddle over as deep as you could go, turn drop and sit under the lip. Run for the shoulder bounce off the rip. Wave after wave after wave..... My bru KimoD. probably shot this later in the morning after the first session. Behind the cameraman was Bay of Plenty, the most contested wave in Africa in it's day.

Little grom mobs dropped off by parents filled the peak as soon as first light hit on weekends, during the week before school it was pretty empty and I had a few late starts when it was on :-).

Lifeguards called surfers out of the water once 8 o'clock hit, which blew because there was no swimming allowed due to the rip along the pier. By the end of the day the north-easterlies had torn it up and it was generally done. But the mornings were pretty special.

Fun

2011-04-04T08:26:00.000-07:00

Coast Guard's view of Crescent City mayhem

2011-03-12T12:59:00.000-08:00

There is a skillful captain out there around the 9:00 mark....

We got off light....

2011-03-11T18:02:00.000-08:00

These pics are of the mouth of the Winchuck a smaller river at the south end of the Oregon coast. My friend RayB sent them earlier today. Compared to other areas (like the close by Crescent City) the effect of this tsunami has been smaller than initially feared.

Prayers for Japan.

Out there.....

2011-02-10T22:12:00.000-08:00

K'Oed

2011-01-04T14:50:00.000-08:00

It started out a small session for New Years Day, 3'@11secs and a couple hours later the swell had jumped to 12'@17secs. Wind was whipping for the second day in a row 20 to 30mph out of the east. A few people out but not crowded at all.

Got a handful of waves, really good shape with the off-shores holding up some inside benders. Kept busy trying to play dodge 'em with the sets and then sneaking inside to pick up the cleaner smaller ones. Surftwin held the corner looking for lefts off a deeper paddle channel that has been scoured out. Lost touch with her as I drifted south picking through peaks.

Last thing I remember is finding a green wind laced right with a nice tapered wall to it that I paddled for....... then I came to while walking up the beach, spitting out blood and tooth chips. WTF... was that? Luckily I had pushed the reset button to default and paddled in, could just as easily swallowed a bunch of water and then what??

Nobody saw it, quite a few people in the parking lot and a half dozen in the water. No recall on my part even now a few days later, but the fuzzy feeling I had the rest of the day is gone. Teeth and nose are a bit sore but nothing loose. Board didn't have any new dents either.

Merry Christmas!

2010-12-17T18:46:00.000-08:00

(Art by Mike stonefish Rilea)

The Pass Through

2010-12-08T11:38:00.000-08:00

It's seductively easy to create a small world around yourself during a surf. To see the approaching peak as the sole thing of importance, a steepened wall as paper to write on. The angle giving the scrawl whatever penmanship you might possess, white ink flowing behind for mere seconds and then gone. We had pulled up to an empty beach, passed one long timer driving home a few miles from here, his grin visible through a windshield defrosting, this visit to a random was a good call.........

The board floats up against the cedar log in a little lagoon of sand surrounded by cobble stones rustling with each wave that brings the high tide surge. Flipped over, rail check no dents and back out. Only Ding out on the peak sitting in green gray water brushed clean with light off-shores, he angle paddles from behind the wave's center and drops into a long left.

From under the cliff base the paddle into the peak is a smooth drift. It's a typical north-west winter day, rain in the hills hanging in white sheets against green trees and the clear cuts. In the those clearings elk wander, some maybe right above us in the trees above the ocean. I have seen black tail deer run straight across volcanic remainders into perfect A-frames to escape a surfdog, it's head the sole evidence for disbelieving eyes as it swam out to sea. I never saw it scale the cliff getting out but it looked completely confident that the sea served as viable escape route, local knowledge I guess.

From those cliffs the rivers can be seen as they drain mountain rains and snow into the sea and through those passes in the earth swim large salmon destined to lay eggs in gravel beds. The same gravel that lines this corner came down those streams eons ago, time. As we paddle west they swim east into the hills, tomorrow we will be in driftboats looking for them in the pools and riffles under willow and spruce trees.

Ding and I trade chest high gems in a repeat of a surf session from months ago, same place, same conditions, same crowd.It's a busy world under us and above, but the waves are all we focus on. It's quiet here, the highway far back tucked into the bay as a little woodsmoke wafts into the waves. The sun comes out and the rights now are an eye blistering takeoff into the glare.

Late in the afternoon we drive back over the third world roads of T'mook county, the truck like a Spitfire avoiding the bone rattles of potholes, the lane lines now only suggestions not direction specific. These soft hills are still moving under us and the local roads are reminders of that.

Post Thanksgiving dinners

2010-11-28T17:35:00.000-08:00

Lovely late hen, still bright and sporting flesh wounds of a sea lion attack. Caught in the rainstorm just around noon.

Wonder if it was the same sea lion that took a run at me yesterday in the crap surf?

Fat fall footballs

2010-11-04T21:30:00.000-07:00

Nelscott 2010

2010-11-02T20:20:00.000-07:00

Nobody drowned, but it wasn't because the ocean didn't try to get 'em.

Blue collar surfing from the start, everybody worked from the get go.

Twenty five feet Hawaiian was the call.

Ballsy.

Shredded.......

2010-10-14T17:20:00.000-07:00

When your legs feel like the aftermath of a seagull feast.....

Blue Chalk

2010-10-08T10:40:00.000-07:00

First five

then three

now one.

October water the color of blue chalk, east wind smooth.

Can see feet but no further into the blue floor beneath.

Hefty north west swell still, long rights past the north house.

Head and a half on sets rope-y peels of blue glass.

Warm water gone and duck dives are cold again.

A brown jellyfish with two holes in it's bell drifts in the lineup , we both wait for a push.

Noll final Sunday

2010-10-03T20:20:00.000-07:00

Early Sunday inside lefts

North-west 10.5' @ 15secs had some size and some gems.

Three days of quality waves like this made for a great 15th Noll Longboard Classic

Surftwin takes 4th in a competitive gal's final..... sweeet!

I got 2nd with the very cool fin trophy. Good waves with some boomer sets.

On the left side of the photo holding court is Bev Noll matriarch to the event.

Mahalo Bev for a great weekend of surf.

:-)

Noll-test

2010-10-02T19:29:00.000-07:00

Solid waves Friday, small but still peaked walls for Saturday.
PC represented with by winning heats that lead to the semis tomorrow or placing right into finals.
Back to the exclusive gated community for massage and abalone dinner :-)........

Our biggest worry is making sure the staff has dry wetties on hand for us tomorrow. Missed the surf celeb welcome by a few minutes as we cruised out for a last light surf check........

Feather bed sleep tonight.....

Finals update on the morrow.......

It's time.....

2010-09-29T18:51:00.000-07:00

Finally.........

Rock sliced toes

Crushing sets....

Mennonite-roca rolled tourist.

Heaving drops into sandy brown waves....

Ridiculously warm water

Ten and a half at 14....

Winter sized without the forty degree air.

Cauliflower, chantrelles and gun

2010-09-23T13:21:00.000-07:00

Fall is busting in the door.

Time to store up and wax up.

The S.S. Minnow

2010-09-10T08:51:00.000-07:00

As near as I can tell, this boat was beached late Monday a week ago. Either gas was low or they were running out of daylight. Not sure.

But that night the surf was small, probably 2'-3' max with light winds. Ding got it good and to himself but left before this happened.

Tuesday it blew hard from the south so getting it off the beach was a no go. Wednesday was back to sunshine with north west winds. But now the swell was running twice the size it had been on Monday. We saw from the north end some movement on the boat. I had passed a beach ranger on the path and he gave me little info on the boat, but was hoping to get it off the sand before the Labor Day weekend.

Figured it might be the owner, sure enough it was. With two in the boat and two out they began to work the vessel off the bar that formed the mouth of the creek.Rocking it back and forth as the tide pushed in, they got into knee beep water and tried to push it out and over the shore break, but the boat was too heavy and the creek too shallow and despite their efforts they could never get to deeper water.

Thank God too, because between the beers it seemed to require for launch and the lack of life vests on any of them, it was going to go from funny to sad in a heartbeat. Last time I read a FiberForm owners manual they SPECIFICALLY forbade surf launches and I'm pretty sure it voids the lifetime warranty.

There was a solid crowd watching this spectacle but no help was forthcoming due to the cockiness of the crew. When an old guy said to them "Good luck." the response was " We don't need luck, we got skillz!" forgetting apparently for the moment that those same skills that had beached the boat on Monday would now have to be relied on Wednesday for the more difficult task. Not a good track record. As they pushed it into the creek run-off the first mate(?) flipped off the beach thinking he was headed out to sea, but he had jumped the gun on that one.

The show came to a close just at the top of the tide when it became clear that there was to be no launch and they wrestled the boat back into the creek. And that was when I left, relieved that they had not gotten out. Between 6' sets, the wind and cold water, as well as the beer and lack of surf experience it would have ended badly.

There's a fine line between comedy and tragedy

From the forest floor......

2010-09-09T20:26:00.000-07:00

Falling down....

2010-09-07T11:32:00.000-07:00

Bring it.

The time has come.

Colours

Heater running

Power drags

Passing on waves that would have made summer sessions

because better ones are showing on the horizon.

Cold.

Wanting longer days.

R B

2010-09-05T08:43:00.000-07:00

South coast stylist. Lanky smooth.

How not to surf Shorties......

2010-09-01T21:53:00.000-07:00

Stoked and broke.....

2010-08-30T10:10:00.000-07:00

Stoked & Broke Teaser from www.KORDUROY.tv on Vimeo.

Gotta love the stoke meter being pegged.......

Light........

2010-08-29T19:51:00.000-07:00

Down in the sea haze a lone figure paced between long period souths lighting the bar. Cruisy lip bumps and bottom turns. The evening light on glass magical. Soft wrinkles of swell pushed up the beach, squeezing the shorebreak into peaks before they collapsed.

Paddled Sonja Redbottom into the far corner of the beach to join the sole surfer. Peaks sauntered in swaying into two or three take-offs, splitting the choices. Chest high drops, lefts and rights. L. was testing out a new Liddle hull, I had a go after a half hour...... much fun! Just as skatey as people have raved about them, don't force the glide, 'cos you can't. Full rail turns in small surf, instant power rush underfoot. Take your time find the spot......

The haze got thicker and in the sunset glare the waves hard to see. A last set about headhigh threw out a left and into the beach I went.

Over curried pork and rice we talked surf and stared at the fog curls mimicing the south swell creeping into the coast underneath.

2010-08-22T21:59:00.000-07:00

Skeleton coast

2010-08-16T11:22:00.000-07:00

Surf Drops

2010-08-15T11:14:00.000-07:00

Evidence of

surf .

pic by Kurt Windisch

Duke finalists

2010-08-10T15:24:00.000-07:00

Kiwanda LB'test and a legend........

2010-08-09T14:56:00.000-07:00

Six pretty maids

2010-07-20T14:57:00.000-07:00

All in a row.

Dory Days cont.

2010-07-20T09:08:00.000-07:00

The two Patricks scope out the conditions.....

Isaac tries out goofy-foot but ultimately decided to go with reg.

Surftwin gets Jesus into his first stoker.

Pics: SandyW.

Dory Days Surf Sesh!

2010-07-18T10:34:00.000-07:00

We had the pleasure of taking some blind kids out for their first surf session ever.

Patrick, Jesus, Isaac, Andrew and counselor Julie.

Nick leading the charge....

Patrick's hoot was heard all the way to the top of the cape!

The four young men were part of a group on a field trip supported by the Commission for the blind.

Their lack of sight did not deter them from paddling out for a few waves.

The water is a chilly 46 degrees F.

Isaac getting to his feet on one of his first 3 waves!! The kid was incredibly stoked and a natural.

Thank yous go out to Terry Appleby for the idea of adding surfing to the fishing trip he annually puts together for the kids.

To Moments Surf Shop and Jeff Mollencop for the wetsuits and equipment.

To Nance, Nick and Pat for surf instruction.

Day of Stoke.

(Photo credits go to Nance and Greg E. of Singlefinphoto.com)

1700

2010-06-26T11:28:00.000-07:00

A nine point quake that lasted five minutes, that moved everything westward about fifty feet. Tsunamis for hours after, Sheets of sand scattered inland, sunken coastal forests from Canada to Northern California.
Those creases across the top of the cape, like a cake collapsed.

Villages and peoples lost to time...

White smoke and lingcod.......

2010-05-25T22:39:00.000-07:00

Ding and I took a drive to Cableguy's in the vain search for waves but unlike the last trip under more or less identical conditions we were not rewarded with anything that induced us into the water. Two people wallowed in the water, one being the girl with the " Leg that breaks like an Orca dorsal fin" paddle(I'm thinking we should all have Indian names).

Methinks Oregon is headed into a June gloom, the weather pattern that plagues Southern Cal many summers. Ours will be different, sans the coastal fog. It will instead be about 46 degrees and rainy with light west winds and three foot surf till October where we will run directly into winter.... I do not have an ounce of Doc's optimism...

In an effort to break out of the funk Ding suggested launching the jetski and I suggested we combine that with the fishing gear and we'd get dinner and some time in on the machine. The southerly winds were pretty light and looked to be holding for the next few hours as we raced back to town to get in the water. Me to the house for jigs and poles, he to the prep for the launch.

Let the clusterfuck begin.........

At Ding's we got the ski running after priming the engine. It sounds good maybe a little smoky but nothing unusual.except for the "Oh shit...." from Ding. He'd checked the oil and found that the inlet he'd stuffed the gas into was actually where the oil should be going...... Dammmn, now we're headed to Ace for a siphon to take the oil out. That $4 solution takes too long so off to Billy's to see if the local mechanic has a hand pump.... no go..... off to Oregon's best kept secret(you don't really believe it do you? No neither do I), and the Napa store has a pump for $20, this is starting to cost $$$! We're about 2 hours into this now as we pull the last of the fouled oil out of the tank and refill with fresh .

The CF continues....

At the beach dressing into my wettie, the wind now kicked into the fifteen knot range, Ding swings through and barely stops before yelling "I fogot my damn suit.... I'll be right back!" He's soon back in black and with the storm still approaching we head out to the rock(avoiding two whales in the cove) and start casting line in the lee, the calmest of not so calm water. Back and forth cruising over the reef that throws a left that has been ridden it's been said, but not in some years now. The surf wrapping the keyhole is ragged with wind and the temps have dipped into the mid-40's. I get a hit but lose the fish without seeing it, just felt the head shake before it broke off.

This is where the CF goes Keystone Cops on us......

The engine is running well, with only a few pops to remind us of the mix up but the wind is hitting 20 knots now and I get tagged again, this time landing a nice ling with the hook buried deep in it's nose it has no chance of freeing itself. We bonk the fish and Ding throws it in the box under the console, just as he's about to close the lid white smoke billows out and engulfs him, I can see nothing and Ding the pilot even less!

"Christ the motor's on fire, we're fucked!!!" That was my first thought and as that processes he lifts the box out and pulls up the spewing fire extinguisher and throws it downwind from us. White powder has covered us on the windward side a bad make-op job, but the engine purring along was music! The fish had hit the safety trigger somehow and set off the cannister. Out into the swells we headed for a wash down and rinse, after a couple more trolls and a lost fish we called it a day and headed back to shore with dinner in hand.

Solid springer

2010-05-17T09:18:00.000-07:00

Wild fish released, bright and beautiful..........

Surf provider

2010-05-16T06:48:00.000-07:00

art by: ReadR.

Waaaaaa!

2010-05-10T17:47:00.000-07:00

BIRTHRIGHT from Sean Mullens on Vimeo.

Is your knee bugging you? Waaaaa!

Your hip a little too tight to surf? Waaaaaa!

Are you a picky bitch like me and the surf is too small for your tastes? Waaaaaa!

In the one word sarcasm of Artie Lange.......Waaaaaa!

Micheal rules.

An ode to Georgia O'Keeffe

2010-05-02T15:28:00.000-07:00

Bendy pockets

2010-04-26T11:42:00.000-07:00

Twentyfive knot winds, big swells reduced by half maybe two/thirds..... here in the lee we watched as two recent soft top grads had a little fun, dodging rocks and safety squatting through the kelp heads. Once in a while a chest high runner would line up and bend through..

"Paddle up the point... paddle up the point...." but they didn't and the first section kept being ignored as they took off on the deeper side of the boil that split the wave and the rides were half the length of what they could've been, but they had a blast, hooting and calling each other into waves.

Bass

2010-04-12T17:28:00.000-07:00

Managed to find six fish. A whale, maybe two cruised in the water just passed the kelp. Dodged a phantom north swell that threatened to get the lone dory up close to the rock, nice solid headhigh swell that cruised through unannounced. Could have ridden it if I was willing to risk a yard sale, but no not so much..... He spooked after that and headed back in.

An eagle combed the outpost for birds, much to their dismay. Murres look smaller in numbers this year and it could be the result of the eagles resurgence, no murres have hatched an egg for a couple of years now off Kong or any other coastal rock within 100 miles.

The eagles make them scatter and other scavengers work the nests free of eggs while the murre avoid trouble. It's a harsh world.

Kooks and their fins.

2010-04-07T11:23:00.000-07:00

(nm shot pics)

Smoooth D

2010-04-05T11:03:00.000-07:00

Summer

might

aways off.

If you believe D's gesture.....

Pez-dispenser

2010-03-30T12:05:00.000-07:00

Overhead.....

2010-03-23T00:18:00.000-07:00

as I waited for the tide, two eagles tested each other lazily, riding thermals

seeing who wanted the corner more.

a few protests rang out and it was settled, with the adult moving south along the beach
while the juvenile took the trees.

A sink o' fish

2010-03-21T12:54:00.000-07:00

Tis the first break of the season . Fresh fish, soup stock and carcasses for possums and cats.

Delicate kelptrout and firmer seabass.

Potato, bean and meatball soup.

Warmth

2010-03-16T11:04:00.000-07:00

Not a local commodity........

2010-03-10T14:39:00.000-08:00

2010-03-10T14:27:00.001-08:00

Michigan diamonds....

2010-03-08T15:09:00.000-08:00

In light of the recent sightings of icebergs on the Great Lakes, Surftwin and I have chosen to dip into our treasure trove of Michigan diamonds.

We swear these are real diamonds from Michigan(or as close as reasonably possible)! They 're expensive and we could well be rich by the time all sales are final....

Prices are not reasonable but shipping and handling is extra. :-)

At the end of the line.......

2010-03-06T22:14:00.000-08:00

a Nestucca steelhead

native

released

Pirates and choco thieves...

2010-03-03T14:40:00.000-08:00

Gotta love The Kiwi and his email, short and to the point....

Five weeks of waves mate, got ripped off... they stole our choco biscuits and got chased by pirates, had to run without nav lights to lose them.

Had a great time, Wilko over and out!

West and clean: Part Deux

2010-02-23T11:01:00.000-08:00

Sometimes you get through the seam unmolested.

Other times you get mowed over like a blade of grass.

Late Friday, a single paddler came across the dune

into no man's land.

Bomb set.

Detonation, mowed.

Spit up and out.

Tilt, reset, start again.

West and clean

2010-02-22T09:24:00.000-08:00

Every dog has it's day.......

2010-02-11T23:02:00.000-08:00

Some dogs have so many fleas, you stop checking 'em.

Cable Guy's.

2010-02-05T12:36:00.000-08:00

We rolled up to a head high set peeling off. Saw a couple people out that couldn't seem to find the peak
Ding finished his beer and called it, "Let's get it now before she floods...". I swallowed the last of the mook's crap coffee and agreed.

Shift change as we climbed across the rocks and logs, leaving one other out and a ways down the beach. Zippery rights, held up by the wind, making late takeoffs the only way in. Lefts that put you into the impact zone south...... best ignored unless the 15 minute paddle is your thing.

Super fun peelers, much better than the other day, no threading the rip out to unpredictable peaks. Today it's all about paddling the peak off, into the angle where the lift throws you down the line as the wall holds herself up. Pull a hard turn and move to the nose while your hand feels the lip dropping over your shoulder.

The rain begins to hammer down with the gusty wind and the tide is pushing, but the wave, as close to shore as it is just keeps running and running along the edge where it was closing out, the wind holds back the wall and lets the lip peel off maybe 75 yards......

We surf til we're sated, no sitting, just rotation and laughs about waves ridden. We call each other into sets or give them up as the peak shifts away from where we are. The beach is empty as the weather worsens, a seiner pulls in for shelter and the grey light darkens although sunset is still a ways off. The boat's light brightens as the clouds thicken wetly. They have a cold and bumpy night ahead of them.

A quick as possible change into clothes and we're off down the road, dodging potholes on the way home. The wipers squeek across the windshield as we rehash the session.

Winter's juice drip

2010-02-02T16:03:00.000-08:00

Finding and staying on the corners in the north west, is a hit and miss affair.

Very little in common with the surf experience to the south.

Could be any of the pockets hidden.

Grind-y 14second lines to the horizon, warbled and toothy.

Coast guard tow-ins over scarcely dredged bars.

Logridden rockpiles and huge stumps pushed into parking spaces.

The winter ocean gives and gives.

In the watertable

2010-01-31T12:29:00.000-08:00

We're all in it at one depth or another....

Dinners dug or caught

Doc's work.....

2010-01-18T17:07:00.000-08:00

Is normally running this shot along with a pithy take on it's relative value to his surfing experience. Not sure where he went today..... maybe looking for a little smaller wave?

I'll go right.....

Up the wall

2010-01-15T10:58:00.000-08:00

A year ago, we were knee deep in a sun cycle of cold water and solid waves. It was going to get neck deep before the grey returned. This year the promise of El Nino's clearing weather has failed to materialize and the jet stream keeps firing the pinballs.

This part of the coast has been on tilt.......... please bump and reset the game.

Happy New Year!

2009-12-31T12:52:00.000-08:00

Merry Christmas....

2009-12-24T11:06:00.000-08:00

Arvo session

2009-12-18T13:20:00.000-08:00

Solid double ups over the inside bar. Ding and myself for the afternoon, joined later by one other.

Treadmills

2009-12-13T16:24:00.000-08:00

The unusual cold

2009-12-11T10:18:00.000-08:00

The ice travels down the river, pulled by tide and flow. A thin chatter takes place between the edges of liquid and solids. The whispered conversation makes me think of ages past. Of centuries when ice controlled all around here.

Bird-fudd

2009-12-10T19:48:00.000-08:00

This meal ended up high on the dune, must have been a 9' tide......

The icy Nestucca

2009-12-09T18:35:00.000-08:00

It's a cold day here on the river Y, on the backside of those trees a few freezer waves are peeling off some choice walls.

Bigger bombs

2009-12-08T19:19:00.000-08:00

Always some new and bigger.......

This swell has teeth

2009-12-04T14:02:00.000-08:00

(pic by G.Englesby)

Many of these moments as long period swell detonated,

clear water and thumpy sandbars.

Best sessions away from the usual.

Air drops with just the rail holding a line til the feet caught up,

loads of shadow time. Just two out. Felt it later after many beat downs.

Nicks and bruises.

All good.

Surfliar

2009-11-20T08:30:00.001-08:00

The Lot.

2009-11-19T15:22:00.000-08:00

2009-11-17T22:49:00.000-08:00

Calm and storm

2009-11-16T11:27:00.000-08:00

The recent nightly closing

display.

On days like this I wonder how they hang on

Thankyoulawdandbabyjesus.......

2009-11-14T15:57:00.000-08:00

For opening the window but pulling the curtain. With the cam down and the snow falling it was a sweet reminder of yesteryear (circa 1980)....

Elbow room and clean lines.

War paint and grins.

2009-11-12T17:39:00.000-08:00

Whupped after a long battle. I had to dot the occasion with a little blood. :-)

Second fish just a little later.

Right on top of the second came the third.

Beautiful colors.

The fruit of dawn patrols

2009-11-05T07:55:00.000-08:00

There you go Dub, order is restored.

Enjoy the 100mph winds outta the south too.

:-)

With style

2009-11-03T18:21:00.000-08:00

Ridiculous level of talent, brass ones and style.

JO'B is more than a one trick pony.

Nias 2

2009-11-02T07:53:00.000-08:00

Awesome power, don't look into the eye!!!!!!

Nias 2009

2009-10-31T10:49:00.000-07:00

Via the Kiwi..... biggest swell in years, stars flew in and tore the bag out.... 30 broken boards in one day.

Lift-off festival.

2009-10-25T11:32:00.000-07:00

(pic lifted w/o permission from Richie Rich....)

Ridiculously high level of talent stopped by yesterday morning and made what was a gutless wave a full on punt ramp. Kalani Robb, Ted Navarro, Dylan Graves and another ripper pulled into town and showed what can be done. And they were fun to surf with to boot. Now all we have to do is keep it up, alas by this morning it seemed the demo hadn't stuck on the collective mind. Oh well, we have something to shoot for......

MoreNoll-test

2009-10-17T13:22:00.000-07:00

Before the wind took South beach to task.......

Groomin' and groovin' time.....

2009-10-14T12:58:00.000-07:00

It's that time of the year.

South winds buffing and polishing.

Sand being moved.

In or out.... depending on littoral drift.

Literal and figurative grinding into ever finer particles.

Creating jewel or being jewel thief.

We wait for purse strings to pull back,

to see what will fall out.

Polished diamond facets or shards of broken glass.

tidewater push

2009-10-10T08:23:00.000-07:00

Crab and kelp salad

2009-10-08T08:58:00.000-07:00

Form and line.

Ripples and orb

2009-10-06T21:18:00.000-07:00

Noll-test

2009-10-05T14:51:00.000-07:00

Sunny and windy day one.

Smallish, mostly in the two to three foot range.

Except in the heats that got skunked and it was one to two feet.

pics: Surftwin

Post-wave sunset

2009-09-29T22:26:00.000-07:00

Access denied!

2009-09-24T14:20:00.000-07:00

So I found this cool way to get out in big surf.......

and it was working so well

that I did it a couple of times

then this happened........... (Sequence by Grant Myrdal.)

Water time

2009-09-23T17:11:00.000-07:00

If every fall was like this........ 6 days, 12 sessions, waist high to 2x, 4 boards. 24 hours in thinner rubber, saw a couple nutters trunking it. It's been warmer before but not for as long as this stretch.......