Thursday, May 29, 2008
All day it kept coming, small swell just chest to head for the most part.First the fish then Sonja, then in the afternoon, back on the fish. Wedgey power peaks with a coverup on Sonja from takeoff to boot....Then every hour or so a good slap across the break of a solid overhead set from outta the blue. Later in the afternoon the north wind blew hard but didn't rub the shape off the wave. But two sessions of paddling against the rip kicked my ass.
Monday, May 26, 2008
Surftwin and I took a run scoping out little scallops of beach, looking for a tidal shift that was surf worthy. While we were on that run it seemed a good idea to clean the beach a little too.....
So we scoured and gathered a little as we scoped. Much of the time I was in 2wd. Then I went up in the fluff for more plastic and didn't engage 4wd till it was too late.(It was suggested to me that I should put it in 4wd earlier but I wasn't paying attention as usual....) Promptly buried it to the axle......
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Saturday, May 10, 2008
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Many days of waves now, spring has arrived and brought good surf too. It seems there are banks in place up and down the coast. Some familiar faces are M.I.A. in the waves, must be hanging local. Hit five different spots in the last week, seen one or two at their best in months. Wish I'd changed boards a lot sooner at the dredging beachie two Sundays ago, it reminded me of North beach it was throwing so hard. NM put at least five more stress cracks in her Genius, she'll need the new board sooner rather than later at this rate!
Got the lovely spot with just three others for a couple of hours, where I was torpedoed by a sealion on an incoming set wave, the buggers are fast and come off a dead start to barrel roll in nothing flat.
Talking of which, I hate seeing this in front of me when I paddle out, there have been carcasses at two places I've surfed lately. And two sealions have been shredded at two different breaks on the north Oregon coast both on the same day and not twenty miles apart. Plus the two fatal attacks on humans,one in San Diego and the other in Mex.......
It's still a live ocean.