Sunday, August 29, 2010
Down in the sea haze a lone figure paced between long period souths lighting the bar. Cruisy lip bumps and bottom turns. The evening light on glass magical. Soft wrinkles of swell pushed up the beach, squeezing the shorebreak into peaks before they collapsed.
Paddled Sonja Redbottom into the far corner of the beach to join the sole surfer. Peaks sauntered in swaying into two or three take-offs, splitting the choices. Chest high drops, lefts and rights. L. was testing out a new Liddle hull, I had a go after a half hour...... much fun! Just as skatey as people have raved about them, don't force the glide, 'cos you can't. Full rail turns in small surf, instant power rush underfoot. Take your time find the spot......
The haze got thicker and in the sunset glare the waves hard to see. A last set about headhigh threw out a left and into the beach I went.
Over curried pork and rice we talked surf and stared at the fog curls mimicing the south swell creeping into the coast underneath.