Thursday, August 18, 2011
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
"put the fin as far back as possible!"
I'm pretty sure that was what somebody in the Safari shop must have written on the order sheet. Loved that board tho', pic taken around '69 or '70. Shaped by Mike Larmont before he opened his own surf shop. Corduroy pants by Hang10..... I swear to God!
Sunday, June 19, 2011
Thursday, April 21, 2011
The Old Man shot this sequence of a "too far to no wall" into "shorebreak crunch", typical Durban summer north-easterly shredded no swell. The plus side of Durban summer would be getting into 80 degree water at 5 a.m., if the landbreeze cleaned up the waves overnight it was pretty good. Think I was about 11 or 12 in these.
Saturday, April 16, 2011
North had this right hander on a conveyer belt, out through the rip, paddle over as deep as you could go, turn drop and sit under the lip. Run for the shoulder bounce off the rip. Wave after wave after wave..... My bru KimoD. probably shot this later in the morning after the first session. Behind the cameraman was Bay of Plenty, the most contested wave in Africa in it's day.
Little grom mobs dropped off by parents filled the peak as soon as first light hit on weekends, during the week before school it was pretty empty and I had a few late starts when it was on :-).
Lifeguards called surfers out of the water once 8 o'clock hit, which blew because there was no swimming allowed due to the rip along the pier. By the end of the day the north-easterlies had torn it up and it was generally done. But the mornings were pretty special.
Saturday, March 12, 2011
Friday, March 11, 2011
These pics are of the mouth of the Winchuck a smaller river at the south end of the Oregon coast. My friend RayB sent them earlier today. Compared to other areas (like the close by Crescent City) the effect of this tsunami has been smaller than initially feared.
Prayers for Japan.
Prayers for Japan.
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
It started out a small session for New Years Day, 3'@11secs and a couple hours later the swell had jumped to 12'@17secs. Wind was whipping for the second day in a row 20 to 30mph out of the east. A few people out but not crowded at all.
Got a handful of waves, really good shape with the off-shores holding up some inside benders. Kept busy trying to play dodge 'em with the sets and then sneaking inside to pick up the cleaner smaller ones. Surftwin held the corner looking for lefts off a deeper paddle channel that has been scoured out. Lost touch with her as I drifted south picking through peaks.
Last thing I remember is finding a green wind laced right with a nice tapered wall to it that I paddled for....... then I came to while walking up the beach, spitting out blood and tooth chips. WTF... was that? Luckily I had pushed the reset button to default and paddled in, could just as easily swallowed a bunch of water and then what??
Nobody saw it, quite a few people in the parking lot and a half dozen in the water. No recall on my part even now a few days later, but the fuzzy feeling I had the rest of the day is gone. Teeth and nose are a bit sore but nothing loose. Board didn't have any new dents either.