Friday, December 18, 2009
Friday, December 11, 2009
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Friday, December 4, 2009
(pic by G.Englesby)
Many of these moments as long period swell detonated,
clear water and thumpy sandbars.
Best sessions away from the usual.
Air drops with just the rail holding a line til the feet caught up,
loads of shadow time. Just two out. Felt it later after many beat downs.
Nicks and bruises.