Perfect Holiday.

SMILE - "Perfect holiday", by Karim Rejeb from December Producciones on Vimeo.

Dust, heat and flies.

A late September afternoon, the sun is dropping behind the hills shadows grow across the dash. A fine talc like dust collects in the sweat dripping down my arms, small brown rivulets growing towards my wrists as we close in on what is the last few miles to the point. We have been on this unmarked section of what was a decent road for over an hour, sliding from one pocket of moon dust to another, straining to keep the van moving ever forward, nerve wracking shit. Boards and boxes of supplies shift and slide as gravity attempts to throw them into unsorted piles, the dog whines and barks at their intrusion. Taped off vents breathe little puffs of brown into the air.

Above us the little truck stops at the crest of a hill, heads peering out and watching our progress(as they have for the last 25 miles off of Mex1) as we pass once more across a soft pan of soil before hitting hard road. Satisfied we won't bog down they drive off and disappear behind the cloud that rises into the settling light. We hit the top of the hill to finally see the ocean laid out in front, the Mexicans driving down to the south toward the fishing village, to the  north trucks and cars are pooled against the north wind a couple of sailors streaking between whitecaps. Between the two posts a righthander turns into the wind, quietly peeling under the cliff with no one on it.

All I've Found by Band of Frequencies. Film by George Greenough. from Band of Frequencies on Vimeo.

courtesy.....Sooloo

you know the rules! round 1 from pinchmysalt.tv on Vimeo.

First custom board....

5'10"X "put the fin as far back as possible!"

I'm pretty sure that was what somebody in the Safari shop must have written on the order sheet. Loved that board tho', pic taken around '69 or '70. Shaped by Mike Larmont before he opened his own surf shop. Corduroy pants by Hang10..... I swear to God!

:-)

"She showing us she's free....."

Captain Barbosa's Raid On Lower Trestles from Jacob Epstein on Vimeo.

Wild Columbian

A right

A left

Watercolor

 

With help from Steve Jobs.

Dairy

The Old Man shot this sequence of a "too far to no wall" into "shorebreak crunch", typical Durban summer north-easterly shredded no swell. The plus side of Durban summer would be getting into 80 degree water at 5 a.m., if the landbreeze cleaned up the waves overnight it was pretty good. Think I was about 11 or 12 in these.

 

North

North had this right hander on a conveyer belt, out through the rip, paddle over as deep as you could go, turn drop and sit under the lip. Run for the shoulder bounce off the rip. Wave after wave after wave..... My bru KimoD. probably shot this later in the morning after the first session. Behind the cameraman was Bay of Plenty, the most contested wave in Africa in it's day.

Little grom mobs dropped off by parents filled the peak as soon as first light hit on weekends, during the week before school it was pretty empty and I had a few late starts when it was on :-).

Lifeguards called surfers out of the water once 8 o'clock hit, which blew because there was no swimming allowed due to the rip along the pier. By the end of the day the north-easterlies had torn it up and it was generally done. But the mornings were pretty special.

Fun

Coast Guard's view of Crescent City mayhem

There is a skillful captain out there around the 9:00 mark....

We got off light....

These pics are of the mouth of the Winchuck a smaller river at the south end of the Oregon coast. My friend RayB sent them earlier today. Compared to other areas (like the close by Crescent City) the effect of this tsunami has been smaller than initially feared.

Prayers for Japan.

Out there.....