Glug glug glug....

Surfed two sessions starting at 7a.m done at 5 p.m. Done, really done! Faces fried and arms aching. Haven't surfed with this many in the water in years. Got a low wave count but better than the usual summer home fare. Fun reef waves, head high on the sets, friendly people in the water despite the #'s. Kooks aplenty somehow everyone co-exists, some regulating going on, but not unjustifiable and not unexpected.



"Do I have to get in your face?"

We're tourists..... we could screw up your commute.

Just a'fore the Golden Gate Bridge, we pulled alongside this fuel truck. Al Queda surf terrorism? Not before a surf mateys!! Four boards for fun and malarkey. Sonja cutting the air with the fin that means business, fish on top drafting for smiles.

WHEEE!

Off to S. C. for the newest south swell, with TFD aka S.S. 552 miles through the Redwoods. Loaded with camping gear for the holiday week what will this road trip bring? The two Mikes keeping an eye open for sneaker waves.

Tagged

Home to local lore and no shortage of rumor and innuendo,Mobile Madness gets a ghetto face lift, surfy style. New condo owners, welcome to your neighborhood, want to learn to surf?


Art work by Sam. Medium: Spray can.

Dog cords

This is off the Freeline board which itself is 25 years old, not sure that it's the original leash or something poached off another tail. Somebody made these by hand, somebody who probably surfed? No mold injectors in Thailand, no riveters on assembly lines and no big cans on the deck of a ship headed into the L.A. Basin filled with surf goodies made by people who may never see the ocean in their entire lives.

No matter, we buy consumer goods left and right with never a thought as to the people who work on them. No I'm not going into the whole slave labor thing with you, just knock it off for once please...........:-).

I like the fisherman's swivel, very cutting edge! Somebody had buckets of them I'm sure and couldn't find anything stronger at the time. The rubber collars are a little stressed too. Decayed might be more accurate. Stitched on a small commercial sewer.

We built leashes in high school from surgical tubing and cord, then sold them as we got better at turning them out. And nervously paddled out, not sure if we were going to be abused by the old guard for clogging the line-up or possibly get an extra $10 by selling a new one.

People forget or don't even know that the cord was reviled when it made it's entrance into the break. Now you can take the position that leashless surfers are a hazard and actually find support........what the fuck?!

6' 1" x 203/4" x 23/4"

This belongs to a long time friend of mine, I have to admit to coveting this stick over the years, kind of like the song "Jesse's Girl" by Rick Springfield. It was built in 1982 as a twinnie by John Mel in S.C. and was a super fun ride as I recall now, but that could be hindsight....;-). It was a twinnie that didn't slide out in my memory bank, but Pat recalls her differently and hence the small trailer fin was added.

In '82 we surfed a fun corner of the coast with just a handful of people (4'-6'and offshore, sunny) and Pat's dog Primo charged across the rocks after a white tailed deer. He didn't get to it as the deer took the swimmers path and leaped into ocean, not coming out till she was safely out of reach hundreds of yards away heading up the sheer cliffs.


In '82...... we were of course younger, less lined and fuller in head hair. The kids were kids, not adults training for a trip up Mt. Kilimanjaro. 101 wound it's way more leisurely through quiet little hamlets in this area and Rellie thought 6'-8' and glassy was funny, still.

Four mile

Backpack full for the day, surfboard on left side, right toe digs in for the pull ahead.