Anatomy of a surf.........

(3rd wreck from the rock)

Damn it's late! Shit daylight savings, roll out. Brush teeth, pull boards and suits.
Coffee and tea.
Then scones from the drive thru.

Slight bump on it from the south easter cove looks like crap too many heads on it to even bother.
Why don't they spread out? Sheep.
Down the beach a left peels off unnoticed, a bit too fast maybe, the bank needs a spot more water. The pack stays north, not catching much and getting underfoot when they do.

I gotta go pee... Will you grab a paper? Here are the quarters.... What?! Well I don't want to get out, it's a bit chilly and the paper stand is right there.....almost kinda. Shaking of head, you better appreciate this, oh I do I really do!

Local comes back to his rig with fishing pole in hand -no fish. That uninspiring huh? Yup, as another series of lefts detonates off the shallows, hmmm.... The bump and rip and bobbing continue in the corner. The wind is supposed to blow this out soon and it's giving indications that the off shore might soon swing out to sea.

Suit up and paddle out, thinking a half hour before this gets ugly. Paper now on the dash......... waiting.

First couple of waves are O.K. better than expected maybe.
The sun pops out of the high clouds that hint of tomorrow's winds to come. J heads away to the further left that is now showing. See a flash of his bottom deck on a few of the set waves. We sit where the first lefts rolled through. Now it begins to A-frame, sweeter!

The Tokyo surfer paddles down from the pack.... I see you I know it must be good he says. I laugh. There is no one following him though. The water is 47 degrees colder than usual. Shorter go outs for all it seems.

Helps to keep paddling. Otherwise I freeze. We trade waves. The pack never gets to more than 3 on a peak. Consistent, punchy. Sunday suprise.

The wind has shifted back to east and everything begins to smooth out. Two hours later a warm shower, surfed out. Smiles all around. Cold looking for more coffee and a good pen.