Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Many surfs....



Many days of waves now, spring has arrived and brought good surf too. It seems there are banks in place up and down the coast. Some familiar faces are M.I.A. in the waves, must be hanging local. Hit five different spots in the last week, seen one or two at their best in months. Wish I'd changed boards a lot sooner at the dredging beachie two Sundays ago, it reminded me of North beach it was throwing so hard. NM put at least five more stress cracks in her Genius, she'll need the new board sooner rather than later at this rate!

Got the lovely spot with just three others for a couple of hours, where I was torpedoed by a sealion on an incoming set wave, the buggers are fast and come off a dead start to barrel roll in nothing flat.

Talking of which, I hate seeing this in front of me when I paddle out, there have been carcasses at two places I've surfed lately. And two sealions have been shredded at two different breaks on the north Oregon coast both on the same day and not twenty miles apart. Plus the two fatal attacks on humans,one in San Diego and the other in Mex.......



It's still a live ocean.

3 comments:

ras said...

hey is that JL paddling out in the top photo.

our spring is proving to be flat and still cold.

Foul Pete said...

Nice. Yeah, had some fun ones over the weekend in your neighbourhood. Quite the scene off the cape at times... Nice turn in that top pic, whoever that is. Tried to find you to pass on a zine, but you were obviously too slotted to be visible.

Gaz said...

No that isn't the legend, no sign of him so far this spring. Must be out on the road for Patagonia....;-)

Yeah I've been trying to avoid the cape in the a.m. and even the arvie sessions have been a little much Pete, sorry I missed you guys.