A hit and a miss!!

After long beach walks and bumpy rides, Surftwin and I pulled a late Sunday surf check, the fog had cleared and weak afternoon sunlight filtered through storm clouds. The wind had completely swung around to off-shores and peaks were coming in throwing lovely curtains down the face. We checked a few miles of beach and came back to the first, just in time to see Heath pull the late drop to face-plant on a head high wave, we jumped...

Paddled over the low tide bar where every 2' wave seemed to drag us back to the beach. A long paddle into crisp little gems, it had all the promise of waves til dark on a night with no crowds left in town. Fat walls swung over the outer bar from the north west, the peaks shadowing over head on takeoff. Short lefts joined with the inside bar and the right coming off that corner....



The off-shore had smoothed out the waves leaving clean walls that got hollower with the pull of the tide. Midway through the session Heath dropped over the edge of an insider as I turned to paddle out to an approaching set. H. started hooting as he kicked out the back of his wave and didn't stop when he got back out either. Longest barrel of his surfing experience, from takeoff to kickout the lip breaking far out in front of him. The inside section hit hard and jacked, keeping him in the pocket till the end of the ride where he popped out like a seed. He was beyond stoked!!

Just as we settled in for what promised to be more, the whiff of "dairy-aire" wafted over the lineup, what was weird was the direction it came from, the south-east where there aren't the cows to tinge the atmosphere. Faaarrrk, the blowout came sudden and hard and in 15 minutes the walls were hacked and ribbed by a south wind with a black cloud descending from the headland, pouring it's guts out. The wind swirled and crushed the clean waves into froth.

Ten minutes later we had all paddled in, done in by mother nature.