On the bubble.

Offshore and raining. Grey waves, pretty faces with an acne bump. Light fading in an hour. Nobody out gotta get some before dark, the north west windows swinging open and closing in tune with the weather. Paddle with the rip, get pulled into no man's land and take a set on the head. Big males come by bellowing and leading their harems, throwing themselves toward me they disappear under the surface to no doubt get closer. At least they're here, my mind conjures up worse scenarios when they're not. Especially dark grey evenings.... "Screw you guys, do that circus trick where you clap your flippers and then leave me alone!"

Solid head high-plus peaks on sets, trying to stay on the bubble against a relentless pull. Best it's been in a while. Thumpy but not shallow enough to hit bottom. Fading left and drop into a turn, left knee scrapes the surface of the wall as I lean back into the right, the new board skates through with acceleration, nice feel. The chop is there but the wave reforms through the middle and races across the inside. An hour of waves ensues as it begins to clean up a little, punchy sets keep swinging across to see if I'm sitting in the right spot, drop and go. Paddling back into the dimming light, the horizon is a smudge which no longer moves. Lights coming on in houses down the beach and headlights swing across the dune as people do a last minute check.

Time to go in......