Friday, September 11, 2009

Inkspot



Clear warm water and a 21 second swell, big sweepy sets. More strange legless aliens leaving unreadable messages in the sand. A flock of mixed birds, big pelis and gulls massed together on a bar just waiting, staying clear of the ocean. Still waiting hours later.

Fin-grindie paddle out, beautiful duckdives through crystal clear faces. Clumps of salad on the beach and in the faces long strands of kelp pulled away, only to come up out the back of waves and tap feet. Aerated water, little bubbles waiting to be released, waiting for this swell to pass before doing so.

A couple drivy waves and then a relentless set swept through and mowed all in her path down. One of the more powerful twenty minutes of non stop wave energy I've seen for awhile. One lone soldier swept out and down 500 yards never got to see the outside at all, access denied, come back another day.


2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Cool picture...big at SS last night...easy out with rip but scary at times...giant sets marching in one after another...

Wave Farmer said...

Surfing Thursday night into sunset...
Green kryptonite lips...
Feathering glassine veils...
You could see the sun glowing...
And every punch through was welcome...
Then that was a chesthigh swell...
Add all that beauty to a solid groundswell...
And it becomes sinister on some level...
Hoping Monday glows...
Gonna surf into the dark if it does.