The beginning of the week threw a few bones our way. Mondays sesh kicked off in the afternoon, a bit unusual as the winds cleaned up the cove later rather than earlier.
Shoulder high rights, the peak stood up against the relentless rip, two hours of non-stop paddling. Small group of locals, sun out, fairly consistent and a brisk wind to help the lips fan out.
Tuesday morning and I'm in the toilet bowl working my way between peaks breaking in waist deep water, good ass kicking conditions. It's just two of us trading off, a few others paddle through but it's easy enough with the drift to get to the next closest A-frame. Back and forth jellyfish drifting.
Winds still offshore, counted 20 people spread out up and down the beach lot of people for a weekday kind of an indicator of the scarcity of decent surf this winter. Yesterday's wave has a dozen of those 20 stuck to her, after a couple of hours I take lunch.
Daylight savings kicked in Sunday, 3 weeks early this year. What a great turnaround! Now that evening go out will last 3 hours not 1.
Back down to the cove and the boys have a fire going and the barbeque fired up, burgers and beers! Nobody out but fun glassy waist high rights are racing down the bar, time to get it...... After a few minutes Ding and Alex join me and it's just the 3 of us, the dinner crowd just watching drinking and eating in the driftwood.
It's a goofball 2 hours of glass and havoc. I paddle up to Ding and park the longboard 18" off his rightside, then as he looks at me I look past him, trying to gauge the incoming peak as if he isn't even there. Standard issue comedy fare we throw around either in the water or the parking lot. In the often taciturn lineup where a nod suffices for conversation we are a bit of an anomaly. We're cracking up and steal waves from each other while we denigrate each other's last rides. Then they're gone and Andy paddles out I ask the time and Christ it's 6p.m. already! I've gotta get back and get dinner started.
Last wave is a shoulder high double dipper cover up and I claim it for the boys around the fire. Wetsuit drive and a hot shower..........
1 comment:
If you're going to pull daily doubles....there should be a rule about not riding the same board within a 48-hour time period. C'mon...ya board whore...dust off those babies.... ;-)
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