The forecasters in spring, I love them!! Frequent blown forecasts are not unusual and last night's south wind warning was one of those. Woke up to easts and a north-west 4.9 @ 11secs, thought it was going to be a short and then choppy sesh as the south filled in but it never came. Instead I had it alone for a good while and one of the sweetest tube rides I've had in ages it seems. A full dry barrel with a warble that forced me to adjust the rail in order to make it out. Glad a friend saw it and smiled.........
A long walk , the south wind arriving the same time I get to the break. One other out already not someone I surf with day to day,but a local res none the less. The tide at full push the wave a bit fat but peaky and showing promise for the low tide. And as the water pulls out through the rip it lines up and throws, it's a good two hours before the swell finally overpowers the bank and the left becomes an unmakeable freight train. The wind shifted back to off shore while we surfed and the sun came out. Clear, cold water a beautiful north west coast day. A long walk back afterwards collecting sanddollars on the way to the car.
The forecasters in spring, I love them!! Frequent blown forecasts are not unusual and last night's south wind warning was one of those. Woke up to easts and a north-west 4.9 @ 11secs, thought it was going to be a short and then choppy sesh as the south filled in but it never came. Instead I had it alone for a good while and one of the sweetest tube rides I've had in ages it seems. A full dry barrel with a warble that forced me to adjust the rail in order to make it out. Glad a friend saw it and smiled.........
A long walk , the south wind arriving the same time I get to the break. One other out already not someone I surf with day to day,but a local res none the less. The tide at full push the wave a bit fat but peaky and showing promise for the low tide. And as the water pulls out through the rip it lines up and throws, it's a good two hours before the swell finally overpowers the bank and the left becomes an unmakeable freight train. The wind shifted back to off shore while we surfed and the sun came out. Clear, cold water a beautiful north west coast day. A long walk back afterwards collecting sanddollars on the way to the car.
3 comments:
What a f'n day!
Sweet photos of a beautiful coastline.
Looks like you scored mate. that right looks bliss.
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