really fun sessions at S........ the past two days - picked up a used Mike T. RP from his personal quiver - nice guy, some really nice boards in his shaping room. Board works great, very drivey and really loose.......
Yesterday was head high to a couple of feet over, coming off the point with a really nice fast wall..moved up the reef and snagged some walled up winders...
Paddled out at first light this morning, very light offshore, new swell filling in, stronger and bigger.... best surf session I've had in many years...hung outside, got a bunch of waves, including a couple of deep set waves all the way thru the inside bowl....will store those in the vault...
5/3's, freezin water and average beachbreak makes us forget.......
(lifted from LC cam)
While this wave in the pic has no relation to the surf report above, it reminded me of what the emailer(almost 60yrs old) was doing, surfing solid down the line grinders with style and grace.
2 comments:
Timing is everything mate, just like getting a fresh batch of clams.
It's the Aussies Brent and Matt. It looks like another cold but solid session around your area of Pacific City.
We're Currently in warmer waters in San Diego County, tying up loose ends as we prepare to cross the border tomorrow morning and make our way to San Quintin tomorro - then to Punta Abrejos and Scorpion Bay over the next 2 weeks. Matt snapped his board in 3ft peelers over a shallow snad bottom thismorning, so a new board is the go for him. We've had waves a plenty in southern Cali. Tresles was 2-3ft yesterday and did enough to impress us. Rincon at Santa Barbara was a highlight though, 3 to 4 and good fun. Anyway mate, we thought we'd drop you a line. Happy Surfing and Thanks Again for your hospitality
Cheers
You're both welcome! Glad you're getting good waves in Cal. Surf has been so so around here, think you'll do a lot better down south. :-) Send an update when you get the urge.
Cheers, Gaz.
Post a Comment