We surfed the little point-like sandbar in the cool gray of Wednesday morning, just 3 of us. Super smooth, waist high fun peelers just off the sanded in crab pots. Then after a couple of hours the south blew in, within 10 minutes the wave was done in. After 5 days it finally stopped blowing, a complete anomaly in our summer conditions of north winds, it felt like winter with the south wind traced sand trails except for the warm muggy marine air it brought in.
No surf for the next 3 days while I was away fishing,but Friday morning dawned with a brushed clean swell that lasted 2 days in the head high range. Long rides from the outside peak with an inside round section that offered a little sun protection in the cover ups.
Photo: KevinP
Longboard and fish sessions, 6 in total kicked my ass, welcome home!
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