We surfed the little point-like sandbar in the cool gray of Wednesday morning, just 3 of us. Super smooth, waist high fun peelers just off the sanded in crab pots. Then after a couple of hours the south blew in, within 10 minutes the wave was done in. After 5 days it finally stopped blowing, a complete anomaly in our summer conditions of north winds, it felt like winter with the south wind traced sand trails except for the warm muggy marine air it brought in.
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No surf for the next 3 days while I was away fishing,but Friday morning dawned with a brushed clean swell that lasted 2 days in the head high range. Long rides from the outside peak with an inside round section that offered a little sun protection in the cover ups.
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Photo: KevinP
Longboard and fish sessions, 6 in total kicked my ass, welcome home!
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