Tuesday

Sonja over the bar, feet planted, rail glide. Wind whipping out to sea, trying to lift the nose and flip us off the shoulder. Gloriously clear and cold water, as cold as a witch's tit. Nobody on it, I passed on fishing the finger in the wind as a chest high set rolled through unmolested. Thought better surf this now and see where it goes as the tide pushes in from dead low, fun fun two lengthy sections linking, solo for an hour, then me and the detective for a bit more.

In the lee of the dune a large group of Orthodox something or others, clothed head to foot. Women with full length dresses and men with beards straight outta Pennsylvania yo! Not driving horse and buggies, no, mostly Yukon driven all SUV'd to the max. But if you looked in a certain direction removing the modern vehicles it could have been a 100 years ago......

Loads of their kids, loads, boys all dressed up and little girls with head scarves like their mothers and aunties. Climbing up the dune and into the teeth of 30 knots before it turned toward the surf and pushed them back down the steep sand. The wind cleaned the wave face and thinned out the lips in translucence as the marine fog filled in to the rock and grabbed the handle near the surface.....