The wind stays light and two hours go by, back on the sand, not more than a hundred yards down the beach is the body of a sea-lion missing it's head and a big chunk of it's chest, before first light that was the log. A couple miles away lies another in the same condition, it's been a busy season. I wonder no more why it skeeves me to surf alone, I am reminded.
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Dawn's shadow.
The wind stays light and two hours go by, back on the sand, not more than a hundred yards down the beach is the body of a sea-lion missing it's head and a big chunk of it's chest, before first light that was the log. A couple miles away lies another in the same condition, it's been a busy season. I wonder no more why it skeeves me to surf alone, I am reminded.
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6 comments:
your last bunch of posts have really been great. this one especially. i recently did a post about a dolphin i stepped over on the way to a surf, but i write like a caveman. your account was killer
You've gotten poetic in your old age gazza...
I've only found bitterness & cynicism in mine...
Aside from surfing, family, art...
Ah well, pretty much everything...
It's a tough old world...
But yeah...
We're a pretty fortunate bunch.
Thanks Ridgeback.
You're cracking me up Doc, those two traits don't describe you at all! LOL.
I'm tryin'...
I like to play roulette. It is my favorite game in the casino.
My brother once saw red 19 hit 8 times in a row in a casino in Puerto Rico.
Eventually though we all know the house has the odds.
I have snuck in and snuck back out with more than my fair share over the years.
But in the long run, I am sure I am down.
Maybe that is why I get skeeved when I surf alone.
Maybe that is why I do not surf as much these days.
I would hate to have all of my money on red 19 on that 9th run.
Anon
They have magnets in Purto Rico y'know...
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