Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Dawn's shadow.

A log in the dark as you make your way, becomes a jarring reminder at first light. Crabbers sit just a mile or so out, overhead lights blazing like mad candles in the middle of the sea. A beautiful morning, light offshores, filling tide making for regular lines, no one around. The sun pushes away shadows from crevices, and an eagle sits high, watching for an hour. It's mate calls and flies in over the peak, and they both sit unmoving in the spruce. Clear water the bottom appearing through some sweet head high reelers, small talk with a couple of regs who paddled out. Before work quiet session.

The wind stays light and two hours go by, back on the sand, not more than a hundred yards down the beach is the body of a sea-lion missing it's head and a big chunk of it's chest, before first light that was the log. A couple miles away lies another in the same condition, it's been a busy season. I wonder no more why it skeeves me to surf alone, I am reminded.

6 comments:

ridgeback said...

your last bunch of posts have really been great. this one especially. i recently did a post about a dolphin i stepped over on the way to a surf, but i write like a caveman. your account was killer

Wave Farmer said...

You've gotten poetic in your old age gazza...
I've only found bitterness & cynicism in mine...
Aside from surfing, family, art...
Ah well, pretty much everything...
It's a tough old world...
But yeah...
We're a pretty fortunate bunch.

Gaz said...

Thanks Ridgeback.

You're cracking me up Doc, those two traits don't describe you at all! LOL.

Anonymous said...

I'm tryin'...

Anonymous said...

I like to play roulette. It is my favorite game in the casino.

My brother once saw red 19 hit 8 times in a row in a casino in Puerto Rico.

Eventually though we all know the house has the odds.

I have snuck in and snuck back out with more than my fair share over the years.

But in the long run, I am sure I am down.

Maybe that is why I get skeeved when I surf alone.

Maybe that is why I do not surf as much these days.

I would hate to have all of my money on red 19 on that 9th run.

Wave Farmer said...

Anon

They have magnets in Purto Rico y'know...