Friday, February 29, 2008

The King of Fin-changes

Gonna miss the bastard, his terrible jokes not so much. Mr. Health Store, he once threw an entire rain forest of vegetation into a blender and tried to give me some of the horrible green concoction. For some reason he thought that was a good thing to do....

A great longboarder who was constantly changing and adjusting his fin setups. You could hear my eyes roll in my head when he did this for the 40th time. He's taken a lot of crap for those rubber tipped fins too over the years. Recently the boys named a big left "Kiwi's" after he charged it, that should stick! Won't miss paddle battling him either, now that I think about it.

Mobile Madness will hardly be the same without that Subaru parked outside of it and Mark crashed out on the couch.... Or the south lot for that matter with his tea brewing or wetsuit drying on a hanger.

Off to Enzed and then Oz....... Cheers and good luck mate!

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Winter Wonderland.

Gun rocks logs welcome to the coast.....

Monday, February 25, 2008


Greg Engelsby converts his photos to watercolors...

Decent waves today, a confused mix of swell from the south-west and north-west. Minus the horrendous rip of yesterday but with the toilet bowl in effect for the paddle back out, two very different demons. Head high and bigger, glassy and just Ding, Kiwi and myself to contend with, it seems to have been awhile since it was that uncrowded.

Sunday, February 24, 2008



Mmmmmmmm......... meat good!

A skull of something big, long dead and bits of blubber drying on the rocks. Right next to the rip, wonder if any deep water beasts can smell what I smell?

Two days of surf, but today was more paddle than wave.

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Now run and hide...........

Abusing veterans is not recommended, particularly this one..... The Kiwi leaving a reminder before he leaves for the land of Oz.... Bumpy and lumpy 11'@18secs. And a river for a rip wasn't helping matters.

Monday, February 18, 2008

Dawn patrol's bounty.

Got a couple of great hours in and just a few others on it, such a change from the crowd of yesterday........ Batten down the hatches it seems we have a couple more pinballs in the chute, about to drop in on us and take this sweetness with them.....

Friday, February 15, 2008

Thursday, February 14, 2008

No surf .......... go fish.

On a streak, the last two trips, seven hooked, seven to the boat....... this is the big boy.

Monday, February 4, 2008

When will it return?

The sun........ not the rock.