Thursday, December 31, 2009

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Friday, December 18, 2009

Arvo session

 Solid double ups over the inside bar. Ding and myself for the afternoon, joined later by one other.

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Friday, December 11, 2009

The unusual cold

The ice travels down the river, pulled by tide and flow. A thin chatter takes place between the edges of liquid and solids. The whispered conversation makes me think of ages past. Of centuries when ice controlled  all around here.

Thursday, December 10, 2009


This meal ended up high on the dune, must have been a 9' tide......

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

The icy Nestucca

It's a cold day here on the river Y, on the backside of those trees a few freezer waves are peeling off some choice walls.

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Bigger bombs

Always some new and bigger.......

Friday, December 4, 2009

This swell has teeth

                                                                                                      (pic by G.Englesby)

Many of these moments as long period swell detonated,
clear water and thumpy sandbars.
Best sessions away from the usual.

Air drops with just the rail holding a line til the feet caught up,
loads of shadow time. Just two out. Felt it later after many beat downs.
Nicks and bruises.

All good.

Friday, November 20, 2009

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Monday, November 16, 2009

Calm and storm

The recent nightly closing


On days like this I wonder how they hang on

Saturday, November 14, 2009


For opening the window but pulling the curtain. With the cam down and the snow falling it was a sweet reminder of yesteryear (circa 1980)....

Elbow room and clean lines.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

War paint and grins.

Whupped after a long battle. I had to dot the occasion with a little blood. :-)

Second fish just a little later.

Right on top of the second came the third.

Beautiful colors.

Thursday, November 5, 2009

The fruit of dawn patrols

There you go Dub, order is restored.

Enjoy the 100mph winds outta the south too.

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

With style

Ridiculous level of talent, brass ones and style.

JO'B is more than a one trick pony.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Nias 2

Awesome power, don't look into the eye!!!!!!

Saturday, October 31, 2009

Nias 2009

Via the Kiwi..... biggest swell in years, stars flew in and tore the bag out.... 30 broken boards in one day.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Lift-off festival.

(pic lifted w/o permission from Richie Rich....)

Ridiculously high level of talent stopped by yesterday morning and made what was a gutless wave a full on punt ramp. Kalani Robb, Ted Navarro, Dylan Graves and another ripper pulled into town and showed what can be done. And they were fun to surf with to boot. Now all we have to do is keep it up, alas by this morning it seemed the demo hadn't stuck on the collective mind. Oh well, we have something to shoot for......

Saturday, October 17, 2009


Before the wind took South beach to task.......

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Groomin' and groovin' time.....


It's that time of the year.
South winds buffing and polishing.
Sand being moved.
In or out.... depending on littoral drift.

Literal and figurative grinding into ever finer particles.
Creating jewel or being jewel thief.

We wait for purse strings to pull back,
to see what will fall out.

Polished diamond facets or shards of broken glass.

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Monday, October 5, 2009


                                                Sunny and windy day one.

Smallish, mostly in the two to three foot range.

Except in the heats that got skunked and it was one to two feet.

pics: Surftwin

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Access denied!

So I found this cool way to get out in big surf.......

and it was working so well

that I did it a couple of times

then  this happened...........                                                 (Sequence by Grant Myrdal.)

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Water time

If every fall was like this........ 6 days, 12 sessions, waist high to 2x, 4 boards. 24 hours in thinner rubber, saw a couple nutters trunking it. It's been warmer before but not for as long as this stretch.......

Monday, September 21, 2009

Romantic Kong

Probably wondering where Fay Wray is right now..........

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

3/2 no boots

(pic by GE)

It's positively tropical out there!

Friday, September 11, 2009


Clear warm water and a 21 second swell, big sweepy sets. More strange legless aliens leaving unreadable messages in the sand. A flock of mixed birds, big pelis and gulls massed together on a bar just waiting, staying clear of the ocean. Still waiting hours later.

Fin-grindie paddle out, beautiful duckdives through crystal clear faces. Clumps of salad on the beach and in the faces long strands of kelp pulled away, only to come up out the back of waves and tap feet. Aerated water, little bubbles waiting to be released, waiting for this swell to pass before doing so.

A couple drivy waves and then a relentless set swept through and mowed all in her path down. One of the more powerful twenty minutes of non stop wave energy I've seen for awhile. One lone soldier swept out and down 500 yards never got to see the outside at all, access denied, come back another day.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Kong smokes

A late summer toke just before sunset.

Friday, September 4, 2009

Eating good from the neighborhood

Chantrelles, lobster mushrooms and crab.
Couldn't fit the salmon in the bowl....

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Little green guy

He went back in after wrestling the hook out, good tasting but not enough meat to justify keeping. Catch him when he's bigger.....