Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Access denied!

So I found this cool way to get out in big surf.......

and it was working so well

that I did it a couple of times

then  this happened...........                                                 (Sequence by Grant Myrdal.)

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Water time

If every fall was like this........ 6 days, 12 sessions, waist high to 2x, 4 boards. 24 hours in thinner rubber, saw a couple nutters trunking it. It's been warmer before but not for as long as this stretch.......

Monday, September 21, 2009

Romantic Kong

Probably wondering where Fay Wray is right now..........

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

3/2 no boots

(pic by GE)

It's positively tropical out there!

Friday, September 11, 2009


Clear warm water and a 21 second swell, big sweepy sets. More strange legless aliens leaving unreadable messages in the sand. A flock of mixed birds, big pelis and gulls massed together on a bar just waiting, staying clear of the ocean. Still waiting hours later.

Fin-grindie paddle out, beautiful duckdives through crystal clear faces. Clumps of salad on the beach and in the faces long strands of kelp pulled away, only to come up out the back of waves and tap feet. Aerated water, little bubbles waiting to be released, waiting for this swell to pass before doing so.

A couple drivy waves and then a relentless set swept through and mowed all in her path down. One of the more powerful twenty minutes of non stop wave energy I've seen for awhile. One lone soldier swept out and down 500 yards never got to see the outside at all, access denied, come back another day.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Kong smokes

A late summer toke just before sunset.

Friday, September 4, 2009

Eating good from the neighborhood

Chantrelles, lobster mushrooms and crab.
Couldn't fit the salmon in the bowl....

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Little green guy

He went back in after wrestling the hook out, good tasting but not enough meat to justify keeping. Catch him when he's bigger.....