Friday, July 31, 2009

As the rain.....

hits my roof this morning, somewhere the ocean is doing this....

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Best swell in 10 years.

From Surflie, good enough plaudits for me. You know it's epic when winter spots are being surfed in July.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Some SC ripper

Actually Josh Mulcoy tearing the bag out of it.........

Monday, July 27, 2009

Dear Lord.......

Holy mother full of grace, please continue the swell that filled this place.
Give Gaz a tube to call his own and a wall to carve from high to low.
Give NM a speedy face so she can trim the nose til kingdom come.

Keep the shoulders clear of hoppers as we hold the righteous line
and hide thy sneaker sets from prying eyes.
Give us this day a dawn patrol like you did yesterday, the peak to ourselves in front of Jack's house,
that was great.

gaz & nm


Wednesday, July 22, 2009

A sunfish visits the epicenter.

A good sized sunfish out in the warmer swath this morning, we thought it might be a shark at first fin sighting..........

Monday, July 20, 2009

Ooligan continues south.....

Got home late from Sooloo's birthday bash(great sushi on surfboard btw), and when I left the house this morning for a surf check found this note in the screen door. The Ooligan is about 40 miles down south now and headed into deeper central coast waters. He's past some of the" lurkier" spots in these parts.......

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Eli headed south

When the fog finally lifted Eli and I headed down to the beach to see if he could launch for the next leg of his adventure. With the wind starting up, things looked good and we headed out for a quick fish before he paddled away.

We fished the south corner of Kong where we found a good sized bass which we filleted on the board and mixed chunks of fish with lime in a bag for a primitive ceviche.

And then Eli paddled off down coast into the marine layer.
Look for him.

Wednesday, July 15, 2009


The wooden board in the foreground belongs to a guy who is paddling down the Oregon coast headed for the California border solo. He left from the south jetty off Ft.Stevens about two weeks ago. He made the board(a single fin) himself and has kept things pretty simple everything he needs is tied off to the deck.

What are you doing this summer?

Monday, July 13, 2009

Friday, July 10, 2009

Wednesday, July 8, 2009


A small flower yellow, dropped on the way
to a nest by
one of it's thousands of inhabitants.

In the lee of the rock, slightly sun shadowed in
the early afternoon.
Both of us out of place.
But not.

Green strands of kelp against the blue grey surface
smeared like paint in the current.
Waiting for an artist regularly rising to the surface and breaking out
heads bobbing.

Thin mop lines of grassy hair on top.

Tired, they pull down with the wrap of a swell
losing their green and becoming a dark brown as they touch and pass by my feet.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

The pursuit of happiness

pic by Fletcher

Get some liberty and freedom over you in your pursuit of happiness today! Have a great 4th of July.