Friday, January 30, 2009

Old hauntings

Took a trip mid-week to old favorites. Found some were still breaking while others had been broken.... time is a relentless bitch!

Friday, January 23, 2009

Wintery blues

Surfed out mid winter blues, this is how it should look.........

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Musica Surfica

Put one in your tray and hit play! A stoker of a surf movie that is very different from any other that I've seen. There's a clip of Derek Hynd ripping up JBay from this movie floating on the internets and blogosphere, it may well be the single most mesmerizing wave ever surfed by a 50 year old surfer. A solid eight foot JBay wall ridden on a chip of a disc without fins. He has finless 360's wired, pulls them off the tail and then reverses them and goes nose first on the next. He has his usual finned style puttung him under the lip and in the barrel all done finless of course. Real waves, ridden superbly well and on a variety of shapes and sizes that boggle the mind.

There's a lot of basic stoke in the movie, and an emphasis on how fun surfing should be on a day to day basis. The classical music soundtrak and interwoven theme of the title are well tied together and give the waves a dreamstate like quality at times. Mick has been very involved in this project from the start and I think is selling them out of Oz. He was just podcast on Surfer Mag with Scott Bass for a little U.S. attention I hope he moves buckets of 'em!

If you lose a fin or forget them at home, you no longer have an excuse to go home dry-haired, it's time to get out there and loosen up baby! Surftwin has a bug in her that wants to see an "All skin-No fins" day around here this year.........hmmmmmm???!!

This was a little accidental finless surfing by a friend who had lost my fin last spring....... it's a great start! :-)

Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Below the floodzone

There are waves.....

Friday, January 2, 2009

Grey ghosts

Just like home, grey and cold, but minus the 21' seas and the winds.....