Thursday, October 14, 2010

Friday, October 8, 2010

Blue Chalk

First five
then three
now one.

October water the color of blue chalk, east wind smooth. 
Can see feet but no further into the blue floor beneath.

Hefty north west swell still, long rights past the north house. 
Head and a half on sets rope-y peels of blue glass.
Warm water gone and duck dives are cold again.

A brown jellyfish with two holes in it's bell drifts in the lineup , we  both wait for a push. 

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Noll final Sunday

Early Sunday inside lefts

North-west 10.5' @ 15secs had some size and some gems.
Three days of quality waves like this made for a great 15th Noll Longboard Classic

Surftwin takes 4th in a competitive gal's final..... sweeet!

I got 2nd with the very cool fin trophy. Good waves with some boomer sets.
On the left side of the photo holding court is Bev Noll matriarch to the event.
Mahalo Bev for a great weekend of surf.

Saturday, October 2, 2010


Solid waves Friday, small but still peaked walls for Saturday.
PC represented with by winning heats that lead to the semis tomorrow or placing right into finals.
Back to the exclusive gated community for massage and  abalone dinner :-)........

Our biggest worry is making sure the staff  has dry wetties on hand for us tomorrow. Missed the surf celeb welcome by a few minutes as we cruised out for a last light surf check........

Feather bed sleep tonight.....

Finals update on the morrow.......