Tuesday, January 4, 2011


It started out a small session for New Years Day, 3'@11secs and a couple hours later the swell had jumped to 12'@17secs. Wind was whipping for the second day in a row 20 to 30mph out of the east. A few people out but not crowded at all.

Got a handful of waves, really good shape with the off-shores holding up some inside benders. Kept busy trying to play dodge 'em with the sets and then sneaking inside to pick up the cleaner smaller ones. Surftwin held the corner looking for lefts off a deeper paddle channel that has been scoured out. Lost touch with her as I drifted south picking through peaks.

Last thing I remember is finding a green wind laced right with a nice tapered wall to it that I paddled for....... then I came to while walking up the beach, spitting out blood and tooth chips. WTF... was that? Luckily I had pushed the reset button to default and paddled in, could just as easily swallowed a bunch of water and then what??

Nobody saw it, quite a few people in the parking lot and a half dozen in the water. No recall on my part even now a few days later, but the fuzzy feeling I had the rest of the day is gone. Teeth and nose are a bit sore but nothing loose. Board didn't have any new dents either.