Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Spring just won't sprung...

Humpy, bumpy session, surfed a good bar getting trashed by the wind swirls. Water temps up to tolerable, sun out.... then hidden..... then out again. Air felt like it dropped a few degrees in just two hours. Spring winds, no warmth though.

Thursday, April 24, 2008

Waiting for Godot.

The storm that blew through left a lot of our crap on the beach, multiple plastic bottles, styro, floats, ropes from ships and a lovely 5 gallons of used oil. Filled the back of the truck.

Summer might get here before spring does,I swear.

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Southies and pelicans......

A short period south swell(194degrees)it should have missed us at that angle and the first sightings of pelicans in the hood..... could be the warm weather isn't far behind? Surf was junky but showing potential with a crossed up wind and the water still chilly.

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Out of here!

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B got his titanium mesh/bone friendly material implant in on Thursday and the good doctor in the pic saw how unhappy he was to have to stay in the hospital, B was clearly ready to go home....... sooner rather than later!

Dr. Sam Hughes was the first doctor to see B months ago when he showed up at OHSU and there was always a good bond between them. So yesterday as we battled to get B to co-operate and argued endlessly about the need to show us his ability to walk(which he felt was an unneccesary burden), Hughes gave him the OK to go home! Keep the stitches clean, watch for all the signs of trouble that may show up, but essentially, just go home and restart your life, it's been a long 8 months for any 14 year old.

Hence the smile.

Dr.Hughes is a surfer/skater who gave up the wheels after breaking a wrist, another break there would possibly limit his range of motion and his desire to be a surgeon.

Thanks to the entire team of docs and nurses who worked on B and saved his life, I'm forever grateful.

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Piss off!

That's clearly their attitude........

Monday, April 14, 2008

Back in the water.

T........ like this steelhead, is leaving for better climes for a month. A long left point, the best one probably in the western hemisphere......

Sand reclaimation.

3rd wreck from the rock is rapidly becoming a memory........

Sunday, April 6, 2008


A week full of fun smallish surf. Crowds were manageable which was a good thing given the size of the surf. Last session of the week I ended up getting out of the water feeling like a pick pocket. I had lifted a really sweet evening go-out with just a handful, then after a short swim in after the board I looked up to see no less than seven heads walking down the beach wanting to get into the action. This was going to double the crowd already out there and the moment didn't call for that many...... oh well, four hours in one day is enough.

As I toweled off, the pack pushed itself ever deeper into the neck of the bottle, quickly snuffing a lot of takeoffs into the whitewater.

Saturday, April 5, 2008

Paired up and bright.

Grey and cold dawn with typical north west light. Winter is holding on for at least a few more days. A pocket of chrome steelies came up the river, we got into five fish in the first hour of the day. At least that many it's a bit of a blur now. Two of them had mates who followed the other to shore, a very cool thing to see, all were wild and ended up going upstream to spawn.

Thursday, April 3, 2008

How to build a surf break.

This is how we roll.........

One bucket at a time till we reach the water......

Then we put it waaay outside and gave it a name..... Timbuktu's.
2007 was a very good year....