Sunday, April 6, 2008


A week full of fun smallish surf. Crowds were manageable which was a good thing given the size of the surf. Last session of the week I ended up getting out of the water feeling like a pick pocket. I had lifted a really sweet evening go-out with just a handful, then after a short swim in after the board I looked up to see no less than seven heads walking down the beach wanting to get into the action. This was going to double the crowd already out there and the moment didn't call for that many...... oh well, four hours in one day is enough.

As I toweled off, the pack pushed itself ever deeper into the neck of the bottle, quickly snuffing a lot of takeoffs into the whitewater.

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