Friday, December 4, 2009

This swell has teeth

                                                                                                      (pic by G.Englesby)

Many of these moments as long period swell detonated,
clear water and thumpy sandbars.
Best sessions away from the usual.

Air drops with just the rail holding a line til the feet caught up,
loads of shadow time. Just two out. Felt it later after many beat downs.
Nicks and bruises.

All good.


karmic voyager said...

i love it... 4 days of surf with no end in sight. get it!!!

David J. Hirsh said...

Got mine on Wed; same conditions. By Thursday morning, it was out of reach again, up here: 12 feet at 14 seconds. Swell reportedly subsides tomorrow. I take Monday and Tuesday off!

Foul Pete said...


Chum said...

What were you thinking when you popped out and saw the second wave in this pic? Assuming that's you!

Gaz said...

Nope not me. Some other soon to be whacked venturer......