Whispers of a swell...

When they sneak in well under the radar...

Some heads in the know.....

The remnant of the swell had faded by the morning after Memorial Day. 3'@ 14 secs check the logs if you don't believe.

Fish tacos.....

 

Keeping the recession at bay. 3 wave session this morning.... called it, went home got the gear and out to the kelp beds to pull dinner.......

Clouds in a tree.

 

That's what I saw and I wasn't high either.

Ocean 1 - Gaz 0

 

Somewhere at the bottom of the Pacific is a rod and reel attached to a good sized ling. I lost the gear when I got crossed up bringing the beast up, should have released the drag and not tried to yard it. They have a lot of power when they see you for the first time. It happened so quickly and the rod was gone into the depths before I could react.

Damn.

A surf report from there.....

Proof that adventures can come at any time, a second emailed surf report

"coool - glad to hear the waves back home are shaping up..

haven't had the time to hook up with anybody - my friend the federal agent surfs on weekends with a friend who has a boat tied up in front of his house, they go out to offshore reefs at crack of dawn that are located two headlands past D.... surf by themselves almost all the time..hoping to hook up with them on the next south..

two sessions today.....in between hung on the cliff at D..... on the grass under a tree, half the time watched the waves, other half watched the outrageous women. l..ok, so I only watched the waves some of the time..LOL"

Kong's head

Limited out.....

Lurking for springers.

Keep on truckin'...

 

Almost every day it seems these two can be found putting the miles on, ski poles in hand for their assault on the dune, They must have kept their vices in check for a lifetime as they're both in their seventies. Good lungs. But at the end of the day frequently seen toasting life with a drink at the Bistro. Once in a while he opines that he might paddle his board out as well, I always suggest waiting til he goes back to Baja to get his sea legs in warmer water. His look says he might not wait.

Whupped......

Dawn patrol yesterday, hit it super early before the wind took out the small surf and destroyed it.Waist high screamers down the bar for 75+ yards, a bit smaller than I like. Two hours of outgoing tide when it should have been dribbling instead it was snap, crackle and pop! Driving little peelers, with head dips and cover ups thrown in for good measure. Wasn't til after 8 before regulars started popping their heads up and by then it was hitting negative.

 

(almost there)

Hit the rock with some sandshrimp and pulled up a couple seabass, by then the wind was hitting hard as I headed in. While the 2 boys played I filleted fresh fish and fed the gulls. Gave 1 of the 2 bass away to a friend. Rolled home and started a fish stock. Marinated the fish. Then as the day folded into late afternoon, hit the estuary for some clams to add to dinner and shrimp for bait today.

 

On the dinner table, fresh seabass sauted and then covered in a French style wine and cream reduction sauce.. mmmmmmm gooood!! Fresh clams battered and fried, tasty! Steamed brocco and Caprese salad, too tasty! Of course I did the dishes, it being mother's day and all.

Timing is everything.....

A surf report from a point south of here.......

really fun sessions at S........ the past two days - picked up a used Mike T. RP from his personal quiver - nice guy, some really nice boards in his shaping room. Board works great, very drivey and really loose.......

Yesterday was head high to a couple of feet over, coming off the point with a really nice fast wall..moved up the reef and snagged some walled up winders...

Paddled out at first light this morning, very light offshore, new swell filling in, stronger and bigger.... best surf session I've had in many years...hung outside, got a bunch of waves, including a couple of deep set waves all the way thru the inside bowl....will store those in the vault...

5/3's, freezin water and average beachbreak makes us forget.......

 

(lifted from LC cam)

While this wave in the pic has no relation to the surf report above, it reminded me of what the emailer(almost 60yrs old) was doing, surfing solid down the line grinders with style and grace.

Monday

Done by noon. Cross up winds from the south east, solid power in overhead waves. Winter is back! Winds with a vengeance this evening. Punchy and angling away from the wind making for tough takeoffs. Just 2 of us. Good enough, nothing too exciting.

2 lings love me long time

 

When lings try to jump ship....

 

Photos by Finland's best surfer and her coach.