Monday, June 11, 2007

Rockfaces, foam and flowers.

2.4 miles of loosely attached rock. 800' high.......enough to reach out and catch a bomber in 1943.

Wild Iris.



Birds living precarious lives above the foam line.

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

Temple of the Blue Wave


My first trip to Mecca in 1974, this is the last remaining picture of that visit. No houses on the point just dune and fynbos. Christmas day dawned with Supers breaking 6-8', it took me 20 minutes to nerve up and drop into a wave. Fear that I would blow a takeoff and get smeared at Boneyards. This is a low tide shot and a bit windblown, locals wouldn't even look at it when it was like this.

Chris Knutsen spent some of his formative teen years here and was one of South Africa's style masters, probably still is. He talked of surfing alone when it was under 8' as the boy's were uninterested in anything below that magic marker.

Six weeks of porch camping, veggie stews with the P.E. boys and Aussies. Watching Larry Levine shape boards, getting boosted from Peter Daniels yard because he already had enough groms camping there. Being blown away by Davey Stolk's surfing.

The long uncomfortable ride to Jbay with the German who played Nazi rally tapes from the 2nd World War. Apropos he thought he had found kindred souls in Apartheid S.A. The craziest full tilt drive back to Durban 750 miles in about 15 hours with a fender bender thrown in for good measure.

Waves so perfect that it changed the way I surfed and looked at waves forever. And I had answered a somewhat sneered question of a classmate, "What will you do if Supertubes breaks?" The ocean dropped off some prezzies that Christmas Day and I pulled the trigger and unwrapped them. Question answered.

Monday, June 4, 2007

Two pair overalls, one cowboy hat.

It's broken down now, but it was the local gas station and laundromat for a small community. And this was Hwy 101 winding it's way back to the coast. Now it's a chicken coop and 101 was relocated some 25 years ago, closer to the Pacific, widened and straightened of a little hamlet charm in the process.

The Kinneman's ran the place, a couple married and together so long they began to resemble each other. Both dressed in overalls and appearing so similar that the only way to tell them apart was to hope Mr. Kinneman was wearing his cowboy hat. Soda sipping in the sun while beach towels tumble dry.

Gone too are the signage of winged horse and gas priced to 9/10ths blowing in the winds.

Adrenal overload.


This will get your attention, even if you're wrong..................

A dollar is just a nickel .


The littlest of mermaid money...........

Friday, June 1, 2007

Nape hair raising........


Well, there is an unrelenting onslaught of non-locals who have invaded the cove and gas chambers, they have no problem going to your inside and taking position. They have no etiquette is what I'm saying...... They even bring their kids into the peak!!!

I'm pretty sure that they are passing the word around that we are an easy bunch to take advantage of as they make their way north to Alaska. There is a new group every week.

Word is that we have contracted with some tough guys from Orcas Island to sort them out and some hangers on have joined the posse. Those guys are scaring the crap out of the surfers here and at Gleneden as well.

Thursday, May 31, 2007

Who woulda thunk it?



Anomaly today offshore winds from the leftside while the rest of the coast got sideshores from the right..........go figure?! Headhigh and head and a half.