A surf report from a point south of here.......
really fun sessions at S........ the past two days - picked up a used Mike T. RP from his personal quiver - nice guy, some really nice boards in his shaping room. Board works great, very drivey and really loose.......
Yesterday was head high to a couple of feet over, coming off the point with a really nice fast wall..moved up the reef and snagged some walled up winders...
Paddled out at first light this morning, very light offshore, new swell filling in, stronger and bigger.... best surf session I've had in many years...hung outside, got a bunch of waves, including a couple of deep set waves all the way thru the inside bowl....will store those in the vault...
5/3's, freezin water and average beachbreak makes us forget.......
(lifted from LC cam)
While this wave in the pic has no relation to the surf report above, it reminded me of what the emailer(almost 60yrs old) was doing, surfing solid down the line grinders with style and grace.