Watercolor

 

With help from Steve Jobs.

Dairy

The Old Man shot this sequence of a "too far to no wall" into "shorebreak crunch", typical Durban summer north-easterly shredded no swell. The plus side of Durban summer would be getting into 80 degree water at 5 a.m., if the landbreeze cleaned up the waves overnight it was pretty good. Think I was about 11 or 12 in these.

 

North

North had this right hander on a conveyer belt, out through the rip, paddle over as deep as you could go, turn drop and sit under the lip. Run for the shoulder bounce off the rip. Wave after wave after wave..... My bru KimoD. probably shot this later in the morning after the first session. Behind the cameraman was Bay of Plenty, the most contested wave in Africa in it's day.

Little grom mobs dropped off by parents filled the peak as soon as first light hit on weekends, during the week before school it was pretty empty and I had a few late starts when it was on :-).

Lifeguards called surfers out of the water once 8 o'clock hit, which blew because there was no swimming allowed due to the rip along the pier. By the end of the day the north-easterlies had torn it up and it was generally done. But the mornings were pretty special.

Fun

Coast Guard's view of Crescent City mayhem

There is a skillful captain out there around the 9:00 mark....

We got off light....

These pics are of the mouth of the Winchuck a smaller river at the south end of the Oregon coast. My friend RayB sent them earlier today. Compared to other areas (like the close by Crescent City) the effect of this tsunami has been smaller than initially feared.

Prayers for Japan.