Sunday, August 24, 2008


This image belies what was two days of great waves. Warm water for us had a lot of people sweating in their 5/3's, saw people bootie-less, heard of some wearing trunks and rashguards only. I pulled the trigger on the 3/2 and was toasty warm for hours. The sun was out and it seemed summer-y, light winds kept the waves clean and the banks turned on up and down the coast. Surfed 3 spots in 24 hours putting in 8 hours of water time, did the beach hike saw a lot of pretty country. Talked story with a couple of the boys Friday night.

Went out for an early morning session Saturday that turned on 30 minutes into it, down a ways the crowd was epic while we traded crisp waves between friends for two hours. Surfed leashless, took a couple of long swims, but the warm water made it easy enough. Shortboarded the afternoon go out, still fairly wind free the buoys reading 4' but the sets were solidly overhead and powerful, I took an elevator drop late mid peak and got solidly rag-dolled. The reminder I think of it as. We are small.


ridgeback said...

stoked out of your mind. what a great couple of days

Anonymous said...

So fun those 2 days! Hope this is just the begining and cant wait to do it all over again. That was the best night of sleep I've had in a long time at Camp Gaz!


Chum said...

Glad to have shared a few with you Saturday... Good times!