Happy New Year!

Merry Christmas....

Arvo session

 Solid double ups over the inside bar. Ding and myself for the afternoon, joined later by one other.

Treadmills

The unusual cold

The ice travels down the river, pulled by tide and flow. A thin chatter takes place between the edges of liquid and solids. The whispered conversation makes me think of ages past. Of centuries when ice controlled  all around here.

Bird-fudd

This meal ended up high on the dune, must have been a 9' tide......

The icy Nestucca

It's a cold day here on the river Y, on the backside of those trees a few freezer waves are peeling off some choice walls.

Bigger bombs

Always some new and bigger.......

This swell has teeth

                                                                                                      (pic by G.Englesby)

Many of these moments as long period swell detonated,

clear water and thumpy sandbars.

Best sessions away from the usual.

Air drops with just the rail holding a line til the feet caught up,

loads of shadow time. Just two out. Felt it later after many beat downs.

Nicks and bruises.

All good.

Surfliar

The Lot.

Calm and storm

The recent nightly closing

display.

On days like this I wonder how they hang on

Thankyoulawdandbabyjesus.......

For opening the window but pulling the curtain. With the cam down and the snow falling it was a sweet reminder of yesteryear (circa 1980)....

Elbow room and clean lines.

War paint and grins.

Whupped after a long battle. I had to dot the occasion with a little blood. :-)

Second fish just a little later.

Right on top of the second came the third.

Beautiful colors.

The fruit of dawn patrols

There you go Dub, order is restored.

Enjoy the 100mph winds outta the south too.

:-)

With style

Ridiculous level of talent, brass ones and style.

JO'B is more than a one trick pony.

Nias 2

Awesome power, don't look into the eye!!!!!!

Nias 2009

Via the Kiwi..... biggest swell in years, stars flew in and tore the bag out.... 30 broken boards in one day.

Lift-off festival.

(pic lifted w/o permission from Richie Rich....)

Ridiculously high level of talent stopped by yesterday morning and made what was a gutless wave a full on punt ramp. Kalani Robb, Ted Navarro, Dylan Graves and another ripper pulled into town and showed what can be done. And they were fun to surf with to boot. Now all we have to do is keep it up, alas by this morning it seemed the demo hadn't stuck on the collective mind. Oh well, we have something to shoot for......

MoreNoll-test

Before the wind took South beach to task.......

Groomin' and groovin' time.....

   

It's that time of the year.

South winds buffing and polishing.

Sand being moved.

In or out.... depending on littoral drift.

Literal and figurative grinding into ever finer particles.

Creating jewel or being jewel thief.

We wait for purse strings to pull back,

to see what will fall out.

Polished diamond facets or shards of broken glass.

tidewater push

Crab and kelp salad

Form and line.

Ripples and orb

Noll-test

                                                Sunny and windy day one.

Smallish, mostly in the two to three foot range.

Except in the heats that got skunked and it was one to two feet.

pics: Surftwin

Post-wave sunset

Access denied!

So I found this cool way to get out in big surf.......

and it was working so well

that I did it a couple of times

then  this happened...........                                                 (Sequence by Grant Myrdal.)

Water time

If every fall was like this........ 6 days, 12 sessions, waist high to 2x, 4 boards. 24 hours in thinner rubber, saw a couple nutters trunking it. It's been warmer before but not for as long as this stretch.......

Romantic Kong

Probably wondering where Fay Wray is right now..........

3/2 no boots

(pic by GE)

It's positively tropical out there!

Inkspot

Clear warm water and a 21 second swell, big sweepy sets. More strange legless aliens leaving unreadable messages in the sand. A flock of mixed birds, big pelis and gulls massed together on a bar just waiting, staying clear of the ocean. Still waiting hours later.

Fin-grindie paddle out, beautiful duckdives through crystal clear faces. Clumps of salad on the beach and in the faces long strands of kelp pulled away, only to come up out the back of waves and tap feet. Aerated water, little bubbles waiting to be released, waiting for this swell to pass before doing so.

A couple drivy waves and then a relentless set swept through and mowed all in her path down. One of the more powerful twenty minutes of non stop wave energy I've seen for awhile. One lone soldier swept out and down 500 yards never got to see the outside at all, access denied, come back another day.

Company about to be smoked...

Kong smokes

A late summer toke just before sunset.

Eating good from the neighborhood

Chantrelles, lobster mushrooms and crab.

Couldn't fit the salmon in the bowl....

Little green guy

He went back in after wrestling the hook out, good tasting but not enough meat to justify keeping. Catch him when he's bigger.....