North had this right hander on a conveyer belt, out through the rip, paddle over as deep as you could go, turn drop and sit under the lip. Run for the shoulder bounce off the rip. Wave after wave after wave..... My bru KimoD. probably shot this later in the morning after the first session. Behind the cameraman was Bay of Plenty, the most contested wave in Africa in it's day.
Little grom mobs dropped off by parents filled the peak as soon as first light hit on weekends, during the week before school it was pretty empty and I had a few late starts when it was on :-).
Lifeguards called surfers out of the water once 8 o'clock hit, which blew because there was no swimming allowed due to the rip along the pier. By the end of the day the north-easterlies had torn it up and it was generally done. But the mornings were pretty special.
4 comments:
cool old photo. seems to me they become more and more treasured as time goes on.
putting on the breaks or just youthful stylin'
True that about old pics, at one time I had a colour slide of that wave.... a perfect round barrel just pitching over, pure glass with the shark net boat in the background. Wish I'd held on to it over the years.
Would like to think it was styling, that corner was starting to rope... :-)
I wish we had some of those south african set ups in oregon....I gotta make it to jay bay and durban some time in this lifetime...Awesome picture!
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